THE CULTURE CREATIVE

/ BLOG

By Sean Yashar

Exterior Decoration with John Leighton Chase

Exterior Decoration: Hollywood’s Inside Out Houses, by John Leighton Chase, is an integrated investigation of a place, West Hollywood, a style, post World War II Hollywood Regency, a profession, interior design and decoration, and of a sensibility, some of it is the relationship between male homosexuality and aesthetic taste and understanding. The book is an examination of the intersection of all of those subjects by using a relatively small and well-defined case study group of buildings, people and places. The popular language of status-conscious architecture is explored in this account of the notorious do-it-yourself remodels clustered on the fringe of Beverly Hills in West Hollywood. These former stucco bungalows have been transformed by their owners into distinctive visual statements. As if they were stage sets, the exteriors of these houses have been treated as interiors, with urns and finials placed on rooftops like bibelots on a mantel, and windows and panels of trellis arranged as though they were pictures on a wall. The result is a lively architectural vernacular, well documented with “before and after” photos, interviews, and construction details.
This book is not only insightful, but it’s also eerily relevant today as when it was first published in 1982. There are slews of books that explore the history of design in L.A., and a number of reads that take a sociological angle for the L.A. landscape. Far less do we find a thourough investigation of West Hollywood as a microcosm of design that exists within the larger context of Los Angeles. None have so successfully explored the essence of the city’s inhabitants as John Leighton Chase. The author, who also doubles as the urban designer for the city of West Hollywood, is an interviewers dream… informative, honest and funny. I enjoyed our Q&A as much as I enjoyed reading John’s book. With no further delay:
SY: The title of your book, Exterior Decoration, intrigued me from the get-go. Can you elaborate on the meaning behind the title, as well as what inspired you to write on this topic?
JLC: “Everyone is familiar with the words interior decoration. They describe, among other things, the design, selection, placement and treatment of objects, furnishings, colors, and materials of interior space, of rooms. Many of the components that are assembled have strong identities in their own right. A painting, an armchair, a vase, exists as complete finished designs in themselves, and as objects. They are then combined and reworked into a larger complete identity of the room or interior. Furnishings in an interior are worlds within worlds. Architects put together buildings in a different way, often called architectonic. The parts and the whole must always have an organic relationship of oneness. For example, [...] a windowsill without a window is not yet finished, and not a complete object in itself. Every interior decorator and designer understands an important fact about what their clients want that sometimes seems to escape many architects. What is that fact? That people love possessions and objects as much and sometimes more then they love buildings. So sometimes focusing on those possessions, which can occupy the special universe that includes objects of affection, such as pets, kids, houseplants, is a more direct route to client happiness. So given these very different approaches of architects and interior decorators and designers, I wanted to understand what happened when a designer acted as the architects of their own home facades, particularly when they were on a budget and they could only make a few key changes in an existing house.”

“After World War II, West Hollywood became a center of the interior design industry. The designers moved into the small, simple houses that make up the WEHO neighborhoods across the border from Beverly Hills. They remodeled their houses to reflect who they were, re-clad them with facades that reflected their own taste and their own identity. The remodels were miniature evocations of the houses of the wealthy that the designers decorated and often helped design. The Exterior Decoration remodels were altered, not as a whole, but in pieces, and sometimes simply by placing iconic decoration on them. Usually much of the original house was still visible. So the parts that were altered became shorthand for the whole, and the houses themselves could be read on two levels, as their remodelers intended, or like Andy Warhol’s 1961 painting “Before and After” could be glimpsed in both its original and altered state. That intrigued me, and I thought that it would be fun to try and investigate that duality. It’s also why I included photos of Before, After and During for the remodels.”

SY: To me, Exterior Decoration is as much a social commentary on the lifestyle of West Hollywood as it is a historical account of the indigenous Architectural styles of the city. Was this your intention, or a wonderful consequence of your research?

JLC: “The book is an integrated investigation of a place, West Hollywood, a style, post World War II Hollywood Regency, a profession, interior design and decoration, and of a sensibility, some of its the relationship between male homosexuality and aesthetic taste and understanding. I liked the idea of examining the intersection of all of those subjects by using a relatively small and well-defined case study group of buildings, people and places.
I was also interested in local history, gay history, and how gay people affected and created urban neighborhoods. You could call it proto queer history, and proto queer space, though I would not have thought of it in that way at the time. I was trying to push the boundaries of what was permissible to discuss at the time. The book was researched in the late 70s. So for example I would not say that John Woolf was gay, rather I would say that he legally adopted Bob Koch Woolf as an adult. I was interested in how gays participated in a taste culture that was consumed by the culture at large. To my way of thinking the vernacular mansard roof that was promulgated by decorators in the 1950s wound up in spec. All discussions of gay taste are potentially liberating and oppressive, just like any other generalizations about any group of people.”

SY: Historically, residents of West Hollywood seem to be remodel rather than replace? Why?

JLC: “It was way faster and cheaper. They were more familiar with stage-set construction, draping, painting and attaching objects rather than actual construction.”
SY: Much of your book is a meticulous account of Spanish Revival Homes that were transformed into Hollywood Regency style in the 50’s &60’s. For me, this was particularly interesting because we just witnessed, once again, a trend for the Regency style mainstream in the past few years. How is this second wave similar or different than before? What’s your take on designers like Kelly Wearstler who have reinterpreted Regency for another run?
JLC: “Just to be blunt, the difference is that Kelly Wearstler is a genius. God bless them, but the authors of the house remodels were not. Wearstler is a consummate design professional in her work who creates fully realized, completely coherent designs. The homeowners I discuss in my book were working on a more vernacular, almost folk level, in which they approached their work piece by piece, but not necessarily with such a clear awareness of what they were doing, or how the pieces added up.”
SY: Why Hollywood Regency? Is it a result of the link between the film world of Hollywood and the physical world of Hollywood, or is it linked with a desire to be associated with an upper-class status?
JLC: “Hollywood Regency is a descendant of Classical Architecture, which signified erudition, refinement, sophistication, and the taste of the wealthy to the decorators. The attenuated proportions and the pared down quality of the Classical references particularly lent themselves to easy fabrication with paint, plywood and plaster. The mansard roof that became a hallmark of the Ex Dec-ers version of the style was a symbol of French culture, of all that was artful and civilized. In the 1950s the mansard roof was part of a set of aspirations towards a more highly evolved and sophisticated life style, symbolized by the use of concepts such as “gourmet” or “custom”. These houses might have been thought of as bungalows or cottages. Add a mansard and you had yourself an instant city townhouse. Many of the remodelers had associations with Hollywood, as part time or former actors, or stage set, set dressing or prop experience. And I always think, as people who both know and are often reminded they are different gay people are especially sensitive to social status, and markers of class. I think some people get to think their identity is somehow automatic or god-given. Not true for gay people. We are always aware that our identities (unlike our sexual preferences) are a choice, that they are socially constructed. And certainly anyone who works in the entertainment industry is very conscious of constructed identity as well. I also think during the pre Gay Lib years, there would have been an extra depth charge behind compensating for any perceived slight or lack of social status as gay, by putting on a bit of extra pomp and circumstance for the world at large. In the case of the Ex. Decs’ that could come in the form of a cast concrete urn, or a special clerestory window designed to display a chandelier.”

SY: What is it about Hollywood Regency that speaks to generation after generation of West Hollywood and neighboring homeowners?

JLC: “In certain ways, Hollywood Regency is literally the last word in design. Here the classical tradition has been attenuated, and concentrated to an essence, refracted through a modernist sensibility of blank wall surfaces, and the use of ornament as punctuation. Take Hollywood Regency any further and you wind up with either a bland and undeveloped modern neo-classicism or just plain modernism, neither of which is a bad thing, but neither of which possess the brilliant tension between elaboration and restraint of Hollywood Regency, doe. Hollywood Regency is a style that has it all, both modern and period revival at the same time.”

SY: I love the contrast you describe between the decorative efforts of an L.A. homeowner to that of a New Yorker. The difference of interior vs. exterior decoration becomes clear in this comparison. What are the key differences between the coasts as it pertains to remodeling?

JLC: “Maybe it’s easiest to focus on the difference by contrasting Manhattan and L.A. In Manhattan, only the privileged few get to own and have control over the full facade of a building. In Los Angeles, in the prime Exterior Decoration period my book covered, from the later 1940s to the early 1960s, there were still parts of Los Angeles, like WEHO, that people of modest means could buy a small free standing single family house, whose public appearance they could readily alter.

SY: “Exterior Decoration is devoted to the […] contributions of private fantasy to the public realm.” Please elaborate for us.

JLC: “If I should ever come into a great deal of money, I would cross dress. That is, dress as a cross between Elton John and Lady Gaga in order to get as much attention as possible, not necessarily to look as good as possible. If I were to go to a special event, say a retrospective exhibit for design icon Tony Duquette, my outfit of choice might be a suit made from a fabric with fleur-de-lis and a top hat to match. Ideally it would be in Hollywood so I could walk down Hollywood Boulevard. There I would pass by Jesus, Catwoman, and Mario Brothers’ impersonators in front of Grauman’s Chinese Theater and Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum. I would be part of the theatrical atmosphere of the Boulevard, where you are free to be anyone you want to be. My private fantasy would wind up on tourists’ Facebook page in pictures, as a record of the public goings on in public space of the Boulevard. My private choice becomes some one else’s experience, just as the individual private sensibilities of the Ex Dec-ers created the fabric of the public streetscape, one remodel at a time.”

SY: You speak of a common thread that runs through “both the most facile interior-decoration remodel and the most sophisticated period-revival Pasadena mansion. After years of research, what do you think the link is between the vulgar and the refined remodels of greater Los Angeles?

JLC: “The common link is the need to make a statement in unequivocal terms, to make a complete set piece that evokes the attitude, time and place of the designer/architect’s and clients choice with no apologies and no holds barred. The difference between the two is that the sophisticated period revival buildings were designed far more carefully, and with a much deeper understanding of their vocabulary. The Ex Dec remodels, in effect aped these houses, including key elements that signified the fancier mansions, such as columns. But in every respect the Ex Dec buildings were far simpler in their composition, execution, and not often necessarily complete as a work of architecture.”

SY: The Regency remodels discussed were occurring at the same time as L.A.’s golden age for Modernism. While some desired to bring a regality to their home, the Case Study program simultaneously in full effect, designing homes with simple lines that lacked ornamentations. These are two significant movements in Southern California that seem to be at poplar opposites. Did these design trends overlap in any way?

JLC: “Southern California has long been an important site for the production of culture. It’s very American to get to choose who you are and to transform yourself into who you want to be, whether it’s by self-help or plastic surgery. There’s no place more American than Los Angeles, where this opportunity creates a great diversity of design ethos and predilections. That said, I do think that throughout the history of modern interior design and decoration in America there has been a continuous interest in period revival design, as well as modern design. This has not been true in the culture of architecture, where period revival architecture for most of the period since World War II has been reviled, viewed as anachronistic, and pointless nostalgic. Interior designers and decorators are far more eclectic in their taste than architects.”

SY: It’s clear now that the West Hollywood remodeler is looking for some kind of public validation is their over-the-top decorations. At the same time, your book discusses the desire for privacy from the very same residents. I’d love to hear your take on this contradiction?

JLC: “Well, who doesn’t want to give a party that is so fantastic that your joy in the excitement of the guests is equaled only by your schadenfreude at everyone’s envy who did not make the guest list! There were two major variants of Exterior Decoration West Hollywood style in the ‘50s. One version featured a big picture window where possessions could be put on display. That was the version where you were supposed to be able to see and admire what you saw. The other was a largely blank facade with a false wall taller than the house. It telegraphed that something very grand was going inside, very special and really too good to be available to the prying eyes of Mr. and Mrs. John Q. Public.”

SY: You wrote Exterior Decoration in 1982, and it’s eerily as relevant today as it was 28 years ago. That said, I’m interested to hear your take on any highlights, evolutions, or shifts in the city of West Hollywood as it pertains to trends in remodeling in the past 28 years?

JLC: “The biggest change is that prior to the incorporation of West Hollywood as a City in 1984, it was a place that had little control over it’s own destiny. West Hollywood was a place that was neglected in its governance, and that had the potential to be so much more. With cityhood, the consciousness of the citizenry as a community has expanded exponentially and now there is a great deal of public involvement with the city, a greater sense of civic pride, and much more that the City can offer the world than the town ever had when the County governed it. The explanation often given for the presence of nightclubs on the Sunset Strip, and gay clubs on Santa Monica Boulevard is that West Hollywood was left over territory between Beverly Hills and Los Angeles, not incorporated as a City. As an example of the control that West Hollywood did not have over itself in one area alone, that of historic preservation, the County allowed Irving Gill’s masterpiece, the Dodge House to be torn down, and one year before cityhood, allowed the oldest house in Hollywood, the 1875 ranch house of Eugenio Plummer to fall into disrepair and ultimately be moved to Calabasas in order to save it. West Hollywood had long been a site for the generation of culture in architecture, design, entertainment, music, fashion and literature. Now it has become a center of organized political action on a range of issues from gun control to senior, renters and LGBT rights. It has also gained a new generation of landmark architecture such as the residential buildings by Lorcan O’Herlihy, Josh Schweitzer’s Kol Ami Temple, and Patrick Tighe’s brand-new affordable housing/mixed use building at Sierra Bonita and Santa Monica Blvd.”

"If Design Were…" with Brooks Hudson Thomas



Blackman Cruz protégé, Brooks Hudson Thomas, breaks out on his own with Specific Merchandise. With a background in art, a fascination for handicraft and the obscure, Brooks curates a collection that is undeniably personal…specific even. According to Brooks, the idea behind this venture was to do a “deliberate mix of high and low things” and to “blur the line between a gallery and a shop.” The collection is pretty innovative even for a discerning design enthusiast, with pieces from furniture designer Tim Lewis, Mexican ceramicist German Montalvo (pictured,) and an exclusive lighting collection by Marie Christophe (pictured.)

After visiting with Brooks and really taking in the store, the name Specific Merchandise really sunk in and made sense. I thought it would be interesting to get inside the mind of the man behind the showroom to understand design as he sees it. Let’s play, “If Design Were…,” with Brooks Hudson Thomas:

SY: If design were… an object?

BHT: “A bottle opener.”

SY: …a person?

BHT: “Donald Judd.”

SY: …a place?

BHT: “Tokyo.”

SY: …a song?

BHT: “Tony’s “Something’s Coming”, West Side Story.”

SY: …a film?

BHT: “Auntie Mame, or Cary Grant in anything.”

SY: …a moment?

BHT: “A first kiss.”

The Difference Between A Designer & Decorator with D.B. Kim


Designer? Decorator? Can someone settle the record once and for all? It seems that the misuse of these terms is a daily occurrence in the print world, on TV shows, on the blogs, and in the design industry in general. I had the pleasure of sitting down with D.B. Kim, award-winning designer, conceptual and constructive practitioner, and commentator on creativity (check out his blog for Interior Design Magazine,) to decipher the primary distinctions between designing and decorating.

SY: Lots of people use the words STYLE & DESIGN synonymously. For me, these words couldn’t be more different, each belonging to a separate camp in the interior design arena. Decorators are masters at styling rooms while designers are problem solvers who create solutions for living spaces. Are people ignorant, or is this just semantics? What are your thoughts on style vs. design/ decorator vs. designer? How are they the same? How are they different?

DK: “I agree that contemporaries tend to use the words Style and Design frequently and over a vast range of visual implementations. For me, Style is an expression of attitude and Design is an act of facilitation. At times, two words definitely overlap and complicate our visual digestions […] Style can be expressed without any intentions: having no style can be a style. And just because a look, a style, is well composed does not mean it is a design. Designers work with provided objectives: they don’t design without purpose. Style is closer to an art form, instinctively. Although, designers tend to have their own style, and we can see this reflected through their products and environments. At the same time, Stylists can produce befitted settings, which respond to the client’s objectives; therefore, their work becomes more than an expression of instincts.”

SY: Is it more challenging to create opportunities in the consumer marketplace for a designer or decorator? It seems that a mediocre decorator with a somewhat distinctive look is more prone to licensing opportunities than a talented designer… seems unfair.

DK: “It is equally challenging, nowadays, to create any opportunity in the marketplace whether designers or stylists/decorators. However, people tend to take less risks and safety net themselves by concentrating on basics. Design opportunities are becoming less demanding and are being pushed to the bottom of the priority list while decorators, like stylists, may rise up to the top of the list because they deal with immediate emotions. Decorations comfort us, whether intellectuals agree or not, and present themselves ambiguously, which makes the risk factor less than work done by a designer. Definitely some decorators have an individual signature aesthetic that becomes one’s own invested portfolio. In the end decorators/stylists tend to provide us with immeasurable experiences that can be romantic. Consumers perceive the designing element as a form of risk taking and a luxurious solution that many of us are limiting.“

SY: Decorators are inspired by… in their work?

DK: “Trends, pop culture, etc… Inspirations come from everywhere and from everything I see and experience. I don’t follow current trends; however, I can never be sure whether I am influenced by current trends in my work.“

SY: Designers are inspired by… in their work?

DK: “I am often affected by my feelings and internal experiences while I conceive designs. At the end, my work is experiential and emotional, but not in a sad way. I use the senses to stimulate in subtle ways.“

SY: Who do you consider a great designer who’s not a decorator?

DK: “Le Corbusier.”

SY: Who do you consider a great decorator who’s not a designer?

DK: “Jacque Ruhlmann.

SY: Who do you consider a great talent who is both a designer and decorator?

DK: “There are many fortunately; however, I think of Tony Chi as one of great designers and decorators.”

SY: I’ve heard that it’s considered an insult to refer to a designer as a decorator within the industry. Is this true? What’s the feeling out there?

DK: “Generally, labeling someone can be insulting. I think that the further we get into the future, our positions become blurred, which can be an optimistic situation, as our activities become broad, opening up to bigger opportunities. However, calling someone a decorator can be a condescending appointment: underlining the notion of having less education in logic of designs and less academic recognition.“

L.A. Muse: A conversation with Alex Prager




Last week, I was invited to the opening night for Alex Prager’s exhibition, “Week-End,” the latest body of work by the 29-year old photographer and native Angelino. Completely self-taught and recognized for her signature aesthetic, Prager’s “Week-End” is a collection of color photographs as dazzling as they are bizarre. The exhibition opened on January 30, 2010, and will run through March 6, 2010 @ M+B gallery in West Hollywood.

“Inspired by the high drama of classic movies—which, despite their theatricality, touch upon genuine emotions of alienation, fear, anger, longing, and lust—Prager’s images seem at first to be all exquisite surface. However the girls of this series—named “Barbara,” “Jane,” “Lois” and other such conventional and slightly old-fashioned monikers—conceal pain beneath their lipstick-lined smiles and dead eyes. In the artist’s own words, she is “documenting a world that exists and doesn’t exist at the same time.” The trilogy began with girls playing archetypal roles in “Polyester.” Then in “Big Valley,” the roles took on lives of their own, and the separation between make-believe and real life began to dissolve. With “Week-End,” which signifies the peak as well as the extent of the period, the façade becomes so thick that the illusion is now more real than the world they actually live in.” – M+B

As a photography enthusiast and fan of Alex’s work, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to sit down with the artist herself. Here are some snippets from our conversation, as we talk about Los Angeles as a source of creative inspiration:

SY: The word “End” in your latest exhibition, “Week-End,” seems to suggest a completion to your previous two works “Polyester” and “Big Valley.” How did the story evolve throughout the trilogy, and why “End” it now?

AP: “The story started with a box of old clothes from the 60′s that my grandmother’s friend Vera gave me because she knew I liked vintage. I threw some wigs on my friends and basically played dress up with them. I think that’s why “Polyester” seems more to me like it’s a performance by a small town theater group with very bad acting. It’s not serious to me. “The Big Valley” was more thought out for me, and I think it comes across a bit more on the edge, and slightly more real. With “Week-end,” I felt as if the girls in the photos were no longer play-acting. It’s as if their little game had become their only reality. To me, it’s like the ending is more about them than about me and the work.”

SY: As the trilogy unfolded, I became more and more convinced that you are doing a commentary on life in Los Angeles as much as telling a story about your cast of females. What is a bigger muse for you, L.A. or the women that fill your work?

AP: “I’d say that Los Angeles has been my muse for the past three series. The girls are more like props to me. I still have to find the exact right one for the picture I’m going to take, and she has to inspire me and all that, but when it comes down to it, there’ll always be another girl, but there will never be another city like Los Angeles.”


SY: How has being a native Angelino affected your artistry?

AP: “There’s so much about this city that I disagree with, but at the same time I love it more than anywhere in the world, I guess maybe some of that might come across in my pictures. It’s like anyone in regard to the place they grew up, I think there’s always some sort of love/hate relationship going on there.”

SY: Rick Owen’s said something like “L.A. should stick to sitcoms and leave fashion to NYC and Paris.” Of course, we’re not talking fashion, but does the same go for art? Is it more challenging to prove oneself in the international community coming from L.A.?

AP: “I don’t really know. I think a lot of artists in New York go unnoticed because there’s so many people focused on art and so much competition. So many rules and politics and all that. Los Angeles is more laid back when it comes to art. You can put a show on in your closet and a crowd will probably turn up. I feel like because I started here, I had more of a chance, not less of it, because when I started my audience was mainly just friends and friends of friends checking it out. Not necessarily to criticize, but more just to see what I had made. I felt like people were interested in a different way than they probably would have been had I been having the same shows in New York. Maybe it’s because they’re more starved for art here, because there’s not as much, I don’t know.”

SY: When one thing ends another begins. Now that the series is completed, what are we to anticipate from you in the future? …new directions/inspirations/anything you’d like to share?

AP: “That’s a secret, but I will be showing “Week-End” in Tokyo in April, and London in June.”

Gary Gibson: An Artistic Approach to Design


There’s an obsession with making rooms pretty in the design industry that I don’t quite understand. I’m not moved by pretty. Flipping through the pages of any popular design magazine, I’m continually shocked at the glorification of over stylized rooms, without personality, but with lots of perfectly plush pillows in hues of floral pastels. One published project after the other, it reminds me of watching a blockbuster movie where you know exactly how the story’s going to end from the very first scene. Especially in LA, it seems that there’s an absence of designers who take more of an artistic approach in their businesses, expressing themselves outside of a need to create pretty rooms. In my observant opinion, one such designer who’s filling the void for LA based design with heart and soul is Gary Gibson.

Last week, I sat down with the native Angelino in his retail showroom to discuss his trademark look, and to pick his brain as an integral player in the design game. The following Q&A’s are insightful snippets from our conversation:

SY: How do you describe your aesthetic?

GG: “My aim is to create interiors that are timeless and classic, but at the same time comfortable and usable. Contrasting surfaces, colors, and textures that excite the eye are always the goal. I’m driven in creating spaces that make people comfortable in the emotions they like to feel. I love juxtapositions, like a gorgeous silk rug on a concrete floor. I think playing with history is fun… designing a modern space, but placing something vintage in it [...] something old brings it back to a human factor.”

SY: What was your goal for adding a retail aspect to your design business?

GG: “I wanted to create an extension of my art studio. The store is a collection of objects that are one of a kind, handmade, mass-produced, vintage and antique [...] this is all the stuff that inspires my design work. I wanted to create an inspiring work environment that could also be accessible to the public; a functional place that’s aesthetically pleasing to all who enter. I wanted to put together all the elements of what Gary the artist, interior designer, and product designer are all about. “

SY: What’s your earliest memory of wanting to be a designer?

GG: “When I was a little kid, my parents gave me permission to do whatever decorating I wanted to do in my bedroom. I had a huge bookcase that spanned the entire length of my wall with lots of shelves, and I would display my toys, rock collection, and all sorts of objects in this bookcase. I’d always change the way I displayed my stuff, and in a sense, I think this was my earliest attempt at creating vignettes to inspire the viewer. “

SY: How has being a native Angelino affected your design sensibility?

GG: “Well, there’s definitely a less formal approach to design here. I think there’s a casual elegance about my work that is related to being from the west coast. We are all products of our environment, and there’s a low-key, organic quality about LA that affects your approach as a designer when you grow up here. I was initially an art major and later made a switch to the design department at UCLA, so even my experiences in formal education and training were done here.”

SY: Have there been any shifts in your clients needs in this last year of disarray?

GG: “The economy has been a really big influence, of course, but surprisingly our business increased last year. I think that people are making an effort to turn their homes into a safe place, physically and psychologically. It has become more essential to have a beautiful, inviting, comfy surrounding to call home. I find that clients are looking to simplify things, and are looking for a Zen-like quality in design.”

SY: Who would you consider an important artist that has been forgotten in recent years?

GG: “Jack Larsen. I think that Jack Larsen’s work as a textile designer is something contemporary designers may have forgotten about. I find that contemporaries take textiles for granted as a form of art. Larsen was influential in opening up the world of textiles to the American public. I’m very proud to be the only retail store in the country to carry Larsen’s textile re-issues from the 50’s.”

SY: Any tips for young designers?

GG: “Work for someone before going out on your own, and realize that there are other positions out there outside of being THE DESIGNER.”

SY: I enjoy…

GG: “I enjoy…mornings at my showroom. I love the way light filters through the drapery, and how the changes in light throughout the day affect all the furniture and objects in the store. I enjoy… the days when new shipments of stuff come in. I feel like a kid in a candy store, like Christmas morning every single time. I love playing around with how I place things, and creating vignettes that provoke emotions.”

Gadi Gilan Presented by ACL

Gadi Gilan Presented by ACL x Cole, Rood & Haan Co. from Michael Williams on Vimeo.

Gadi Gilan presented by ACL. I’m really feeling the style of this short filmed interview. Simple, content rich, and impressive.

Patrik Rzepski: Straps & Horsehair


Patrik Rzepski is a New York-based fashion designer. His aesthetic derives from punk rock, violence and teenage angst. He’s best known for his odd inspirations, such as Myra Hindley, the child-murderess, and JonBenét Ramsey. Some in the industry are calling him a younger Alexander McQueen, but I think his talent has a P.O.V. of his own. Always on the moodier side of romance, Patrik’s aesthetic is sexy, sophisticated, mixed with a little bit of darkness. I won’t spiel you, so let’s just get into a quick interview I did with Patrik instead:

SY: With past collections inspired by the mystery behind JonBenét Ramsey, notorious English Murderess Myra Hindley, and infamous ’70s gang of German terrorists Baader Meinhof, is it safe to say that you are a subversive hardass obsessed with murder?

PR: Inspiration comes from everywhere. I think people are more drawn to those reference points. In the end, the inspiration becomes quite romanticized, nothing is literal.

SY: It seems like the most genius artists in this world are also dropouts. No matter how relevant the school is, it just can’t give you that innate talent that will ultimately be needed to “make it.” Was there a moment that made it crystal clear for you to leave school?

PR: At the end of my first semester during finals, the director of the fashion department saw my final and asked what class I was teaching. I think you can never have “too much” education, however school was not for me and luckily fashion is an arena in which experience counts for just as much if not more.

SY: I’m a native Angeleno, so I always try to throw in an LA question when appropriate, here goes: Rick Owen’s said something like “LA should stick to sitcoms and leave fashion to NY,” How do you feel about that perspective? How do you feel about LA and fashion?… I mean, on the one hand we have natives like Paris Hilton (boo) and on the other we have the fashion genius of MK Olsen (yay.)

PR: I will agree with anything Rick Owens has to say, but I also think that LA can’t help but be celebrity centric and unfortunately that dilutes and distracts from what’s actually going on, but I have no idea what if anything, is going on in LA.

SY: I love collabos in fashion, especially when the avant garde and mainstream come together. Jil Sander’s doing a line for Uniqlo, Rogue Gallery is doing a line for LL Bean, Raf Simons did one for Eastpack, etcetera, etcetera… If you could do a line for the masses, who would you collaborate for?

PR: I would definitely be up for doing a collaboration, I’ve been crushing on Nike.

SY: Is it true that you once buried a dress in your parents backyard before digging it up and sending it out on the runway? Explain?

PR: True, for S/S 2004 I dug a trench in the yard and buried a pink linen party dress and left it for 2 weeks to give it a bit of femininity and gore.

SY: FAVORITE CITIES…

SY: For life?
PR: Barcelona/Madrid

SY: For love?
PR: Brighton Beach

SY: For fashion?
PR: Milwaukee

SY: For your work… biggest market/buyers?
PR: Asia

SY: For food?
PR: Paris

SY: For sex?
PR: Current Location

SY: For inspiration?
PR: New York

SY: I can’t live without…?

PR: Coffee/Peter/Ipod

SY: If I could only buy/afford one thing from your collection, what should I buy? Is there a definitively P Rzepski piece?

PR: Anything with straps/horsehair

SY: What’s upcoming for you? What would you like to communicate to us for your line in 2010?

PR: You’re so chic, you’re so sheer, teenage rebel of the week

SY: Where will you be for New Year’s Eve?

PR: I will be doing the Polar Bear Swim @ Coney Island again on New Year’s day, so nothing wild

Daniel Everett, "Conversations with a Computer"


A still from the artist’s conversations with an electronic psychotherapist. (Above)

“Contained within the operating system of Mac computers is a rudimentary electronic psychotherapist program. Meant to simulate a Rogerian therapist, it engages the participant in a cyclical conversation by taking his or her statements and roughly reconfiguring them into questions. I met with this program three times a week for a month in order to discuss my fear that I was disappearing completely.” – Daniel Everett

Ok, so if you have a Mac and you want to visit your electronic psychotherapist, here are the steps:

1. Go to finder
2. then applications.
3. Go to the Utilities folder
4. and open Terminal
5. When it has started up, type in “emacs” and press enter
6. Then press x and escape together
7. Then type in “doctor”. You can then begin a conversation with your own personal psychotherapist on your computer. When you finish saying something, hit the return key twice.

Quite interesting,

-S

Daniel Everett

WISDOM

Thanks to Armen for recommending this film.

-S

GIVENCHY HOMME 2009


If the GIVENCHY HOMME debut for Spring/Summer 2009 doesn’t inspire you, nothing will!

When I saw the pics from the Paris show, It immediatley got me singing “Girls & Boys” by Blur…

“Girls who are boys
Who like boys to be girls
Who do boys like they’re girls
Who do girls like they’re boys
Always should be someone you really love”

But seriously, The Givenchy Homme show was a standout for many fashionistas (both men and women).

This collection was a first for Riccardo Tisci who has been heading Givenchy’s women line for sometime now.

Riccardo Tisci is an unassuming anti-hero who makes heroic, powerful looks that still retain an all-encompassing aura of elegance – a concept absolutely central to the house of Givenchy. Let’s not forget, after all the stop-starts with other previous designers, he is making the label pop. Now, in a hugely significant step, he’s brought his talent to Givenchy menswear, meaning he’s one of the few designers responsible for both women’s AND men’s rtw at an iconic brand, as well as haute couture. – PONYSTEP.COM

“I am not looking to dress men as women,” Tisci continues, “but rather offer them a viable wardrobe that serves them equally well in any situation: classic suits that seem to have come straight from the atelier of a traditional Neapolitan tailor, as well as T-shirts and leather trousers for the weekend.” A wardrobe for men “whose beauty has a hint of menace”. – GIVENCHY.COM

Givenchy comin’ back with powa-powa,

-S

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SEAN YASHAR
CONTENT CREATOR